​I hadn’t thought about Nanaimo Bars in many years. That is, until last week, as I shared lunch with other travel writers and public relations people at a sleek, contemporary *Nashville restaurant called Roze Pony. And there they were in the bakery case-those decadent, three-layer bars full of chocolate, nuts, coconut, and creamy richness. Each bar looked to be about 3 inches long, per side.
 
That’s a big difference from the recommended size of a one-inch square per serving, in this recipe that Mom used decades ago. She’s still going strong, at 90, but doesn’t recall how she came upon this recipe. So, I did a little digging, myself. Turns out this decadent no-bake dessert was named after the city of Nanaimo (pronounced nuh-NYE-mo), in British Columbia, Canada, on the east side of Vancouver Island. And the bar has been a beloved staple of big celebrations there, for more than seven decades.
 
Since I typically tinker with recipes, I’ve been trying to decide if a little less butter might work. I don’t want to change the custard texture (#2, below) so would keep the butter there. But I think the crust might also perform well with 4 tablespoons of butter and three tablespoons of mild extra virgin olive oil or safflower oil.

​See what you think of this time-honored recipe and enjoy!

​Ingredients #1
 
½ cup butter
1/8th package unsweetened chocolate
1 egg, beaten
2 cups graham cracker crumbs
1 cup grated coconut
1 cup chopped walnuts

​Ingredients #2
 
½ cup butter
1 teaspoon vanilla
2 tablespoons instant vanilla pudding                                                                     (many Canadians use custard powder, instead. It creates creamier texture & distinctive yellow color, but it’s hard to find in the U.S.)
2 cups confectioner’s sugar
3-5 tablespoons milk

Ingredients #3
 
4 ounces bittersweet chocolate chips
1 tablespoon butter

Directions
​
#1 – Melt butter and chocolate in double boiler. Add egg slowly and stir in. Add remaining ingredients and fold together. Press mixture into buttered 9 x 9 pan. Let cool and harden in the refrigerator for 15-20 minutes before adding #2.
 
#2 – Cream together butter, vanilla and pudding. Slowly add and incorporate confectioner’s sugar until well blended. Add milk slowly, as needed, to achieve thick, smooth consistency. Spread mixture on first layer. Allow to cool and harden in refrigerator for at least 30 minutes.
 
#3 – Melt chocolate chips and butter in double boiler. Spread across first two cooled layers. Add more chopped nuts as garnish, if desired.
 
Let cool for several hours before cutting. These bars are very rich so cut small - at least 24 bars per pan. They freeze well too.  

*Note: As is common in the travel industry, the writer received accommodations and other compensation for the purpose of review. While it has not influenced this review, the writer believes in full disclosure of all potential conflicts of interest.    
​

Greetings from Nashville! No, I’m not baking in somebody else’s kitchen today. I actually baked this recipe and then took photos, several days ago, before I headed out. I had big plans to create a chocolate recipe that includes many steps, plus it would be my first time using yeast in forever (stay tuned – that recipe is still on my list)!

But after making 100+ brownies last week, for the No Kid Hungry Kansas City fall bake sale, this quick yet delicious chocolate recipe called my name, instead. Another great thing about this recipe? You can easily freeze some unfrosted muffins/cupcakes, for later use.
 
It’s been a long time since I made these muffins/cupcakes, and this recipe does make an ENORMOUS number of treats. Call me a little impatient, but after I filled 24 regular-sized silicone baking cups with batter and still had plenty left over, I pulled out and filled my mini muffin pans. I didn't want to wait for the large ones to bake and cool before reloading. I also iced only about half of the large muffins/cupcakes, making freezing more viable for some of these goodies. 

​Chocolate Muffins or Cupcakes
Makes 24+ regular size cupcakes
 
Batter
1 ¾ cups sugar
½ cup vegetable oil
½ cup cocoa
2 eggs
1/3 cup sour cream or Greek yogurt
2 cups (whole wheat pastry) flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking soda
Pinch of salt
2 teaspoons vanilla
3/4 cup hot water
 
Paper or silicone baking cups
 
Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Line muffin tin with baking cups. In a mixing bowl beat together sugar, oil, and cocoa until smooth.

Add eggs, mixing well. Add sour cream, flour, baking soda and salt, beating to mix well. Add vanilla and hot water. Batter will be runny. Use a ladle to fill your baking cups.

I've been making variations of this brownie recipe for so long that I don't even remember when I first found the original version. It featured white chocolate chips in the batter with dark chips on top.

I'm not a big fan of white chocolate so, instead, I put loads of the dark stuff right in the batter. I've also reduced the amount of batter sugar, in favor of more dark chocolate bits. Here is my current Ultra Fudge Brownies recipe, just in time for National Chocolate Day (October 28)  :)

Ultra Fudge Brownies
Makes 2-2 ½ dozen
 
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate
1 stick butter + 3 tablespoons mild olive oil or safflower oil
1 ¼ cups sugar
3 eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla
1 cup whole wheat pastry flour
Pinch of salt
1 ½ cups bittersweet chocolate chips
1 cup chopped nuts, optional​

Melt chocolate and butter in a double boiler (or microwave the chocolate
and butter in a large microwaveable bowl at HIGH, until butter and chocolate have completely melted).

​Mix in sugar and vanilla thoroughly, and then stir in eggs, one at a time. 

Incorporate flour and blend well. ​

​Mix in chocolate chips (and nuts). Spread in greased 13 x 9 pan. Bake at 350 degrees for 25-30 minutes. Do not over bake. Cool completely before cutting. 

​If you’re already a fan of chocolate-nut flavored spreads, consider making this healthier version that allows you to control the amount of sugar and salt. As always, I’ve tinkered with this recipe since I encountered it in a magazine, many years ago. Although I have reduced the amount of sugar from the original, this recipe readily accommodates more, if you simply must have sweeter results. 

Not planning to eat your hummus within about four days? It will freeze and thaw beautifully, for your next chocolate fix.

Chocolate Hummus
Makes 24 servings
 
1 (15-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed (I recommend using the low salt variety)
1/2 cup cocoa powder
1/3 cup sugar, with more, to taste)
3 ounces peanut butter
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1/2 teaspoon salt, with more, to taste
1 teaspoon instant coffee powder (optional)

5 to 8 tablespoons water (I used 6 tablespoons for this batch)

​1. Put chickpeas, peanut butter, olive oil, cocoa powder, sugar, vanilla, coffee powder and salt in a food processor fitted with a metal blade. Pulse, scraping down the sides; continue mixing until well blended. While the processor is running slowly add water by the tablespoon and check frequently until you reach the desired texture.
 
2. Refrigerate and use within 4-5 days and/or freeze until ready to defrost. Use as a dip/spread for toast, fruit, or graham crackers. 

I've always appreciated well-made truffles. Rich flavor and soft ganache create the ultimate sweet bite. But that sweet bite is also typically full of (delicious!) saturated fat, from heavy cream. So I decided to adjust an existing truffle recipe a bit, by substituting avocado for half of the cream.

Because avocado deserves to play with spicy flavors, I also added cinnamon and chile powder to the ganache and coating powder. The results are delicious and not quite as decadent as the original. In fact, after a friend of our daughter's tasted one of these delicious treats, she asked if I would make them for the dessert buffet at her wedding. What an honor! 

A word of 'warning' before you start. This is a lengthy process, including the wait time between individual steps. So set aside about three hours, find your favorite movie, and hit pause as each step begins. It's worth the effort.

Avocado Chile Pepper Truffles
Makes 18-24 truffles
 
Ganache
3/8 cup avocado
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon cinnamon
1/8 tsp. salt
8 ounces dark chocolate chips
 
Coating 
½ cup cocoa powder
¾ tsp. ancho chile powder

1. Puree avocado in food processor. In a saucepan, combine it with cream,
chile powder, cinnamon, and salt. Bring to a boil and then remove from heat.
Cover and let steep for one hour.

2. Reheat the mixture over medium heat until it just comes to a boil, stirring
occasionally. Pour mixture over the chocolate chips in a bowl. Stir until the
chocolate is completely melted, and the mixture is smooth.

​3. Pour mixture into a shallow glass pie pan. Chill for two hours, until firm.
With a 1-inch scoop or tablespoon, scoop out chocolate and roll in the palm
of your hand to create a rough ball. Shape and place on a sheet pan covered
with wax paper. Chill for 5-10 minutes. 

​4. In a shallow dish, combine the coating ingredients. Roll balls in mixture
until coated, place the truffles back on the sheet pan with the wax paper.
Chill until ready to serve.
 
5. If chilled longer than 2 hours let stand for 30 minutes at room temperature
before serving. Store truffles in a tightly covered container for up to 2 weeks.

Although the calendar says this is fall, October temperatures in the Kansas City area can still fluctuate wildly, from the 40s to the upper 70s. With this crazy weather in mind, here’s a cold, sweet treat for you to enjoy on those days when you don’t even need  to wear a jacket. 

This inaugural blog recipe is a riff on a very old L.A. Times recipe, called Mayan Chocolate Pops. The original recipe featured espresso or espresso powder, plus two cups of half-and-half. But my husband isn't a coffee fan so I nixed that ingredient, and reduced the amount of half-and-half slightly, to help with freezing.

The L.A. Times version did include cinnamon, but I increased the amount for my cinnamon-loving family. Finally, I added chile powder, another family favorite and quite appropriate for cuisine from this part of the world. Please enjoy my:

Spiced Mexican Popsicles 
Makes 6, 3-ounce servings

How to Fully Experience Chocolate
 
As mentioned in my previous post, Gail Ambrosius (owner of Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier, in Madison, Wisconsin) has created an information sheet regarding how to judge every piece of chocolate that you encounter. I’ve summarized her terrific tips here:
 
Sight 
Is the chocolate shiny or dull? Mahogany, dark brown or even black? These characteristics reflect the type of beans used to create the chocolate, plus their source and processing.
 
Scent/Aroma 
When slightly warmed between your fingers, is the aroma delicate or potent? This will give you a ‘tip’ regarding potential flavor.
 
Sound
Does the chocolate you are tasting ‘snap’ as you bite into it? That’s a sign of proper chocolate tempering. 
About tempering: https://www.ecolechocolat.com/en/chocolate-tempering.html
 
Taste 
As the chocolate melts on your tongue what flavors do you think of and how does that change over time? When you exhale through your nose, how does the flavor shift and linger?
 
Touch 
Notice the chocolate texture in your mouth. Is it sandy/grainy or smooth/silky? 

Chocolate Production and Climate Change
 
The previous post also mentioned Ambrosius’s concern about her company’s carbon footprint. To learn more about climate change and cocoa production, visit http://www.confectionerynews.com/Commodities/Climate-change-and-cocoa-Chocolate-firms-action-to-temperature-rise/?utm_source=newsletter_daily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=30-Apr-2015&c=OquP9o9q%2B29WTWa2qvZGiJTc6C3zptEU& .
 
And here:
​http://www.confectionerynews.com/Commodities/What-is-the-environmental-impact-of-cocoa-production/?utm_source=newsletter_daily&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=30-Apr-2015&c=OquP9o9q%2B2%2FcF%2FrlLZXlT%2BRqyRCAyh78&​

​Definitions Associated with Ethical Chocolate-Making
 
SINGLE ORIGIN CHOCOLATE: Cacao beans in a chocolate product that came from only one location, whether from the same country or the same individual property.
 
ORGANIC CHOCOLATE: This chocolate variety must feature certified organic ingredients, with no pesticides or genetically modified elements included.
 
FAIR TRADE CERTIFIED: Farmers who grow the cacao used to make chocolate receive a 'living wage'   

A Little Chocolate History
 
Father of modern-day taxonomic plant classification, Carolus Linnaeus named cacao ‘theobroma.’ From ancient Greek, it means ‘Food of the Gods.’
 
Cacao is a Mayan word the Spanish colonizers of Mesoamerica retained to describe the tree and its produce. This plant grows around the world in a band spreading 20 degrees north and south of the Equator.
 
As the nineteenth century began technology made it possible to transform chocolate into bars and other sweets. Developed by Rodolphe Lindt, his ‘conching’ technique allowed chocolatiers to create smooth melted chocolate from cacao.
 
Learn more chocolate history here: http://blog.oup.com/2016/07/chocolate-facts/

Dark Chocolate’s Health Benefits
 
A fermented edible, cacao is also considered a health-promoting super food. And this article, 7 Heart-Healthy Perks of Dark Chocolate, details how cacao:

-Prevents Heart Disease
-Powers Heart and Blood Vessel Cells
-Boosts Blood Circulation
-Calms Blood Pressure
-Lowers Stroke Risk
-Helps You Meet Cholesterol Goals
-Relieves Stress on Your Heart

​It's no small honor to be listed among the top 10 sweets destinations across the nation, in Food Network magazine. But that's exactly where chocolatier, Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier, found her stellar dark chocolate creations, when the publication named hers the 'Best Little Box of Chocolates,' in 2010.
 
Ambrosius and her staff create unusual flavor combinations that have also landed this popular shop on Best of Madison lists, multiple times. She has appeared on the Today Show and on various cooking shows. Bon Appétit, Martha Stewart Living, and Travel + Leisure have also praised Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier.
 
Not bad for a business that opened in 2004 and an owner who previously worked as a cartographer (mapmaker) for the state of Wisconsin. But Ambrosius only made the leap into chocolate making after she studied the art in Paris, fulfilling a decades-old dream. During a Wisconsin press trip, we sampled many of Ambrosius's dark and decadent single origin and blended chocolate truffles. 

Photo courtesy of Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier

​Ambrosius’ inventive truffle flavors included shiitake mushrooms, which enhanced the chocolate flavor of 65 percent cacao (cacao definition). Chocolate from an heirloom cacao bean combined with lemongrass and ginger to create a smooth, seductive filling with just a little 'kick.' Sweet curry with saffron incorporated an unusual heat in one truffle, while Cinnamon/Cayenne truffles added sweet and savory spice to dark, rich chocolate.
 
In addition to truffles, Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier crafts decadent caramels, fruit and nut-filled bars and barks, and chocolate-dipped orange peels. There is premium hot chocolate mix as well as chocolate tree frogs, or Buddhas, and Tumbled Bites – roasted Colombia espresso beans or cacao nibs enrobed in luscious Colombian dark chocolate.

During our visit, Ambrosius regaled us with stories about the warm relationships she has developed during her visits to various cacao farms, especially with Costa Rican farmers. She sources chocolate from Hawaii, Colombia, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Peru, and Venezuela, creating a smaller carbon footprint than if she purchased it from Europe. 

Photo courtesy of Gail Ambrosius Chocolatier

Finally, as we tasted her truffles, Ambrosius encouraged us to experience chocolate tasting through multiple senses. To learn her tips about tasting chocolate (abbreviated from her printed info), as well as some chocolate history, stay tuned for the next Chocolate 2.0 post.

A rush of Almendrado (almond) Tequila suddenly bathed my tongue, swirling together with the melted dark chocolate shell. I immediately wanted to try a second flavor. This time an explosion of rich, seductive ruby port and melting chocolate enveloped my tongue.
 
These are only a few varieties of the liquid center chocolates available at this must-visit destination for chocolate lovers. Among Duke’s Spirit Filled Chocolates, liquid center flavors include Irish Cream Liqueur, Tequila Rose Strawberry Cream Liqueur, 360 Double Chocolate Vodka, Tennessee or Single Malt Scotch Whiskey, Anejo Tequila, Peach Schnapps and Paula’s Texas Orange Liqueur.
 
Wine lovers may taste Cabernet Sauvignon, Australian Tawny Port or Raspberry wine inside other liquid center chocolates. And non-alcoholic selections include mesquite roasted or espresso coffee and black cherry or raspberry nectar.

Duke created her three- to five-day molding and filling process for cast liquid center chocolates, following her apprenticeship with a Swiss master chocolatier. By 1984, her business was born. 

Duke and her staff primarily use chocolate with 50-53 percent cacao, and her American roots inspired her to add liquid flavorings that Americans would appreciate. Vegan Fortunata #4 chocolate is used to make keto confections.

But there’s more to Duke’s repertoire than liquid chocolates. Sample her silk fudge – melt-in-your-mouth, creamy and luscious. Crafted with chocolate, heavy whipping cream and natural flavors, this fudge takes its sweetness from the chocolate itself. Be sure to sample truffles too, available in more than a dozen flavors.

No matter what you sample, I guarantee you won't want to stop with just one.

Please note: As a travel writer, I received accommodations, entry fees, etc. while visiting this area, in advance of reviews and/or profiles. I do my best to remain impartial and offer full disclosure to avoid potential conflicts of interest.​

                   It’s Halfway to First Ever 19th Annual World’s Shortest 
           St. Patrick’s Day Parade®;  Cheech Marin to Be Grand Marshal

HOT SPRINGS NATIONAL PARK, Arkansas — It’s halfway to the First Ever 19th Annual World’s Shortest St. Patrick’s Day Parade®, and Cheech Marin, half of the legendary comedy team Cheech and Chong, will serve as the grand marshal on March 17, 2022.
 
Marin had been scheduled as the grand marshal for the parade in 2020, but the coronavirus pandemic disrupted the event for two years, resulting in drastically reduced versions in 2020 and 2021...

(Reprinted from Visit Hot Springs press release. Please contact Paul Johnson 501/231-3817, pj72205@comcast.net, for more information.)

I travel as often as possible, whether I’m part of a group or solo. And this chocoholic always enjoys checking out local purveyors. But a trip to Chocolaterie Stam in Des Moines, Iowa, came as a complete surprise.

When I visited the city for lunch with several editors, a number of years ago, I also had some downtime. So I drove around until I bumped into this family-owned chocolate enterprise that began in Amsterdam, and has operated in this Midwest town for decades.
The moment I stepped inside I felt as if I’d entered a time machine.

​My surroundings spirited me back to the 1900s. Only the computerized checkout told me otherwise. A baby grand and antique upholstered chairs in rich chocolate brown filled a cozy seating area that flanked a mustard-colored wall filled with vintage photos. Gold-painted faux arches decorated a long wall behind the service counter filled with a beverage menu and dozens of flavored syrups.

I sampled delicious dark chocolate while admiring this family’s sweet artistry. There were tiny white chocolate swans with clearly defined feathers as well as chocolate coaches and horses, and cognac cream or chocolate rum truffles. Luscious cream- and nut-filled bonbons spilled from a wicker horn of plenty. The staggering array of bonbon flavors was primarily available in dark or milk chocolate with choices such as Tea Ganache, Forest Berry Cream, Italian Cherry Cream and Crème Brule.

But most of all, I loved the Stam story. Nearly a century before the family officially launched their chocolate enterprise in Amsterdam, their bakery was known for pastries and chocolates. When customers especially clamored for the chocolates, patriarch, Jacobus Stam, shifted the company’s focus to exclusively making these decadent treats. That was in 1913.

​By the 1930s-1940s, three of Stam's four sons, and one daughter, worked with him, and each one developed his/her own branch of the business. The chocolaterie really took off in Amsterdam. When one son decided Americans would appreciate these quality chocolates, he opened his first branch in the United States.
 
Today residents of Wisconsin, Nebraska, Missouri, Minnesota, Ohio, and several other Iowa cities, also enjoy Chocolaterie Stam stores – where sweet indulgence has been a way of life for more than 100 years.

It will be seven years, next month, since I served as a U.S. delegate to Terre Madre and Salone del Gusto in Torino, Italy (most English speakers call this city Turin). Sponsored by Slow Food International this mind-boggling biannual extravaganza showcases producers and supporters of ‘good, clean & fair food.’ During the week-long event, I met chocolate (cioccolato, in Italian) makers from across the globe and attended a chocolate tasting workshop with a wide range of samples. 

One morning, I took a break from the Slow Food conference and trekked out to Torino's legendary Caffè Al Bicerin – where the warm Bicerin beverage has been made at this tiny shop for centuries. It's full of coffee, liquid chocolate and cream. 

But my most unexpected chocolate encounter took place at the conference hotel, where I arrived a night early, before because of transportation issues. By the time I checked in to my room at Rivoli Hotel, in Rivoli, Italy, it was nearly 10 p.m. and I hadn’t eaten much while in transit.
 
I didn’t want a big meal so ordered a glass of Sangiovese and a slice of chocolate cake. As I sipped my wine, I began to wonder why I hadn’t yet received any cake and asked my server. He somehow communicated that the dessert takes a long time, because it has to be baked at the last minute. I had inadvertently ordered classic Torino lava cake, perfectly prepared and perfectly decadent.
 
It was a sweet ending to a trying day.

A certified chocoholic, I returned home and tried a recipe for Classic Torino Chocolate Lava Cakes. You can also find it inside my friend, Jasper J. Mirabile, Jr.'s, Jasper's Kitchen Cookbook. Reprinted with author permission.

Classic Torino Chocolate Lava Cakes
Serves 4
 
6 1/2 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
3 tablespoons unsalted butter
pinch of salt
2 whole large eggs, separated, plus 2 egg yolks
1/4 cup sugar
Espresso cream sauce, for serving (see Jasper’s cookbook)
whipped cream, for serving (optional)
​ 
1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Butter four 6-ounce custard cups, dust with flour and shake out the excess.
 
2. Combine the chocolate, butter, and salt in the top of a double boiler set over simmering water. Stir until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the top of the double boiler from the bottom and cool for 10 minutes.
 
3. Meanwhile, use an electric mixer to beat the egg yolks and 3 tablespoons of the sugar in a large bowl on medium-high speed until thick and light, about 2 minutes. Use a rubber spatula to fold in the chocolate mixture.
 
4. In a clean medium bowl, using an electric mixer fitted with clean, dry beaters beat the egg whites with the remaining tablespoon of sugar until stiff but dry peaks do not form. Gently fold the whites into the chocolate mixture in 3 equal portions, each time mixing just until the whites are incorporated.
 
5. Divide the batter among the prepared custard cups. Place the custard cups on a baking sheet and bake until the cakes are puffed out but still soft in the center, about 11 minutes. Transfer the baking sheet to a rack and cool for about 3 minutes.
 
6. Using a small, thin knife, cut around the sides of the cakes to loosen them from the cups. Place individual serving plates on top of each cup and invert each cake onto a plate. Remove the cups.
 
7. Spoon the Espresso Cream Sauce around the cakes and top each cake with whipped cream, if using.

I have always found festivals to be joyous events. And this Mardi Gras-inspired gathering offered loads of joy amid a cold and misty February morning. I'd love to return sometime!

The Iowa Chicken Run is a raucous yet family-oriented Cajun throw-back to early Mardi Gras celebrations, which began in small neighborhoods long before the glitz and glamour of events held in New Orleans and Lake Charles, Louisiana.
 
Pronounced ‘I-O-Way,’ this small town definitely knows how to host a party. In February 2013 our tour group arrived on a gray and chilly morning at the small, rural KC Hall. Folding tables covered in green and purple tablecloths, Mardi Gras beads and metallic face masks filled the main room. The aroma of gently simmering gumbo merged with the sound of quiet conversation and laughter coming from a commercial kitchen. Another lavishly decorated table held a luscious King Cake.

We wrapped our coats tightly around us and headed towards the simple floats assembling outside. Most were mounted on flatbed trailers, with coolers full of Lousiana’s Abita Amber beer, and portable outhouses. Deep purple, bright green and sunny yellow streamers, masks and garlands decorated each float where adults and children of all ages joyously assembled.
 
Purple, gold, and green striped hats resembling the Cat in the Hat mixed with Mardi Gras-themed baseball and cowboy hats. Brilliant beads complemented pirate garb, overalls and peacock-bright scrub shirts decorated with lines and layers of multi-colored fabric fringe.

​As the small procession began additional neighbors walked beside the slowly moving floats. Others stood along the 3-1/2-hour parade route to catch multi-colored beads that we threw into their outstretched hands. Zydeco and rap blared from float-mounted speakers.

​The parade eventually ended at Rabideaux’s Sausage Kitchen where hot gumbo and fiery zydeco dancing continued until the sun fell on another Mardi Gras celebration in Iowa.

There's a haunting beauty to Georgia O'Keefe's beloved Ghost Ranch, located 65 miles northwest of Santa Fe, New Mexico. O'Keefe bought a house and seven acres here, in 1938, where she lived for more than 50 years. 

Massive rock walls colored with wide mineral striations are topped with rock spires that jut into the brilliant blue sky. She painted most of her landscapes at the west end of the ranch, including the twisted juniper trees that also captured her interest.

But O'Keefe valued all kinds of natural beauty and purchased her second New Mexico property about seven years later. Located only 13 miles from Ghost Ranch, her other home and studio offered totally different panoramic views.

One of the earliest people to install picture windows, O'Keefe overlooked quiet mesas, mountain vistas, wide fields and spindly cacti from her simple, unadorned white bedroom, where her collected stones and bones lined the windowsill.

​Just as her natural surroundings shaped and inspired O'Keefe's art, her art captured the spirit of this wild and wonderful environment for generations to come.

​As seen at the Wichita Art Museum, Wichita, Kansas, during a special Georgia O'Keefe exhibit.
Note: As a travel writer, I received accommodations, entry fees, etc. while visiting these areas, in advance of reviews and/or profiles. I do my best to remain impartial and offer full disclosure to avoid potential conflicts of interest.

I thoroughly enjoyed this trip a number of years ago. I've tweaked the verbiage a bit, to make it more current. Since this trip I've also tasted wines across California's Lodi Valley and Sonoma County. Wine tasting is a delicious and relaxing way to explore different locales - whether in California, the Midwest, or near the east coast.

Touring wineries while on press trips can be almost as wonderful as tasting the fruit of their labors. That’s how I felt about Hahn Estate in Monterey County, California – a family-owned winery that is SIP certified (sustainability in practice) and a member of the Monterey Bay Area Green Business program.
 
Chardonnay and Pinot Noir grapes have a strong presence in this growing region. Chardonnay is the number one grape grown in Monterey County and Pinot Noir grapes are number #1 in the Santa Lucia Highlands wine growing region, where Hahn Estate operations are located. Their Chardonnay and Pinot grapes occupy thousands of acres and two AVAs (American Viticultural Areas).
 
On a sun-drenched, cool October morning, we followed our guides to hilltop aging and bottling operations where half of us scrambled onto ATVs and the rest headed inside. The ATVs climbed rocky narrow paths with all the agility of a mountain goat as the valley opened up beneath us, creating breathtaking views.
 
The Santa Lucia Highlands are a long, narrow AVA located on very old soils with very consistent climate. Mountainous terrain above, river waters below and the close proximity of Monterey Bay create a ‘thermal rainbow’ effect where 40 degree temperature swings on a summer day and ocean air sweeping across well-drained rocky soil beautifully accommodate vineyards.
 
When we reached the summit, our hosts opened several bottles and provided glasses for a brief tasting. Everyone pulled out cameras as we sipped, before returning to the ATVs and a tour of the aging and bottling operations.

​Upon returning to the tasting room we sampled multiple bottles, including Lucienne, a deep colored and delicious 'luxury' red. We then enjoyed a gourmet lunch on the adjacent deck while admiring more spectacular valley views.

Wine pairings accompanied gooey panini sandwiches with creamy, root vegetable soup and a crisp salad full of goat cheese and dried cranberries. It was a lovely way to celebrate California wine making.

After a press tour through Sonoma, I gifted myself one day of solo time in the Fisherman’s Wharf neighborhood. With only 24 hours on the clock before I returned to the airport, I arrived at the Best Western Tuscan Inn, where the valets looked like gondola pilots in their black and white horizontal-striped shirts and black straw hats.
 
The hotel lobby resembled a casual and cozy Italian manor, with a rear window that looked out on a multi-level terrace full of potted flowers and greenery, and small trees. A sign reminded guests about the free happy hour offered every evening, and I vowed to return from my adventures in time to socialize.
 
I pulled on my warmest jacket against the February chill and set out on foot. The smell of salt water, and uncharacteristically blue winter sky, lifted my spirits. I explored Pier 39 and then headed to the other end of the Wharf where I met a writing acquaintance and local resident, for a private wine tasting at a new wine store.

Fueled by great food and drink, I returned to the streets with stops at Ghirardelli Chocolate Company and several other food purveyors.

It was late morning when the smell of freshly baked bread drew me to Boudin Bakery, within view of San Francisco Bay. A street musician created sonorous music as he tapped enthusiastically on a twin pair of over-sized bongos, and raucous gulls swooped across parking lots and buildings.

Inside the bakery, more than 150 years of history coalesced in dozens of fresh sourdough loaves, paying homage to a tradition that began when the Gold Rush '49ers merged traditional French baking techniques and 'sour' dough. In fact, today's loaves are still made with a portion of the original 'mother' dough, which has been divided and replenished with flour and water each day since the first batch was made.

With a crunchy crust and a chewy center, a 24-ounce loaf only cost about $4. If I hadn't been so full, from breakfast, I might have grabbed lunch in Bistro Boudin, the company's first full-service restaurant. And if I hadn't been so pressed for time, I would have toured the company's on-site museum - full of city history and antique photos - or stopped by the demonstration bakery.
 
But, sometimes, it's also nice to have things you can look forward to during your next visit.

Fishermen still moor their boats and unload their catches daily at Fisherman’s Wharf. I walk along Jefferson Street in the early morning and see tanks full of live crabs at Alioto-Lazio Fish Company, one of only two commercial fish-processors and sellers here.

It’s also one of less than two dozen companies at the Wharf that still catch and process their own fish. The family-run operation opened in 1940 and offers shipping services throughout the nation.

Hours later, I walk back towards the docks for dinner. Classic fish stands line the sidewalk where vendors extol the virtues of their enormous shrimp, plump Dungeness crab, succulent swordfish and glistening oysters as hundreds of visitors stream past. Stomach growling, I enter Nick’s Lighthouse - a seafood institution since 1934.
 
Gingham-checked vinyl covers the tables, fake grapes hang from the ceiling and model ships and thousands of Christmas lights line wooden walls. I seat myself as Sinatra croons and order linguine with crab and tomato sauce. Huge bits of crab are tossed in a chunky light tomato sauce and tiny shrimp pile high on my house salad. I order a crisp chardonnay, dig into my pasta and wonder if the crab came from the Bay this morning.

After walking for 20 minutes through chilly, fog-shrouded morning air, The Buena Vista Café and its legendary Irish coffee beckon me. When I order the signature beverage my server simply says, “Make me one.”
 
Legend has it that in November 1952, then-owner of the cafe, Jack Koeppler, and international travel writer, Stanton Deleplane, tried to re-create the popular beverage served at Shannon Airport in Ireland, without much success.

But Koeppler was so determined that he visited the Airport to taste the real thing and, many tastings later, he nailed the iconic coffee and whiskey mixture. A local dairy owner helped him recreate the foam.

As the fog thins, cable cars spring to life, cars dim their headlights and dedicated cyclists challenge the city's famed hills. The foam on my Irish coffee lasts for more than 20 minutes in its special six-ounce glass – enough time to make a major dent in a steaming plate of Crab Eggs Benedict. It's worth $7.50 to taste a bit of history with my meal.

From pottery and sterling jewelry to blankets or ristras, artists share their exquisite work throughout the state. Two of my favorite artistic outposts thrive in or near tiny Chimayo, in northern New Mexico.

Centinela Traditional Arts
 
During one month each fall, freshly dyed yarn drips from clotheslines near Irvin Trujillos’s dyeing shed at Centinela Traditional Arts, in Chimayo. Brilliant morning light floods the shop, illuminating weaving designs influenced by Mexican serapes and modern styles such as the rug emerging from a massive loom. It has edge bands in peach, rose and aqua and intricate designs at the center.

In the next room striking geometrics decorate brilliant red and powder blue Chimayo coats. Indian Head and buffalo nickels or sterling buttons shine from brightly striped purses, while soft wool/silk jackets and ponchos reflect collaboration with Polo Ralph Lauren.

Irvin greets us with all the enthusiasm of a kid in a candy store. Centinela is both playground and workspace – where he shares the art that has infused his spirit with joy and satisfaction for 60 years. His wife, Lisa's, quiet yet welcoming presence provides calm counterpoint to Irvin's ebullient spirit.

Continuing a seven-generation family tradition of weaving Chimayo blankets. Irvin was a National Endowment for the Arts National Heritage Fellow 2007 and held a 2009 show at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe. His wife, Lisa, is expert in Colca – Spanish regional embroidery – and her saltillos, which take three months to complete, sell for more than $15,000. 

Theresa's Art Gallery
 
Theresa Montoya was working as a medical assistant, when she decided to open Theresa’s Art Gallery instead, nearly 40 years ago. At first, her Southwest oil paintings, and retablos crafted by her husband, Richard, completely filled the space.

As the business grew, their art began appearing in churches, museums and galleries across the nation, including the Smithsonian American Art Museum. Their children have also won awards at the Spanish Market and have pieces in the Children’s Permanent Art Collection at the Museum of International Folk Art in Santa Fe.

Their next step was to bring in the work of other artists. Today a small sign along Chimayo Hwy No. 76 directs visitors to the gallery and studio. Inside the bright and airy room Theresa wears a hot pink shirt, turquoise bead necklace and broad smile. A treasure trove of New Mexican art surrounds her, from handcrafted wood carvings and weavings to exquisite tin pieces.

​The state’s largest collection of retablos includes Richard’s whimsical riff on classic retablos, honoring the Beatles. Pottery abounds, including highly coveted pieces from Santa Clara Pueblo. The most famous and most collectible pottery in the United States, it’s also the most expensive

Every piece of pottery has a creation and design story, which Montoya describes in great detail. "We get people here from all over the world, to buy this pottery," Theresa says. “I don’t have overhead and I'm a small businesswoman so Native Americans sell me pieces for up to less than half of what they sell for, in Santa Fe.” 

Above photo is courtesy of Tanque Verde Resort

Okay, I'll admit it. I'm a big fan of the Southwestern-Western U.S. Here was a favorite experience, from the Tucson area.

Our breakfast trail ride began at Tanque Verde Ranch Resort, outside of Tucson, on a gorgeous, warm mid-October morning. I had slathered loads of sunscreen on my arms, shoulders, neck, and face and retrieved a baseball cap to shield against the desert sun. We met at the stables where the horse handlers paired me with a gentle white/gray horse named Dale.
 
Before long, our press group had entered a sea of saguaro cacti, which I thought of as a ‘transparent forest.’ We rode to a high hilltop, with Dale navigating rock, sand, cacti, narrow trails and steep inclines as I gently pulled him away from tasty bushes along the path. By the time we reached our breakfast site, everyone was hungry. And what a feast awaited us!
 
The staff had transported a huge cookstove and grill up the mountain, where regular and blueberry pancakes turned golden brown. Crispy hash browns, chile and cheese-spiked scrambled eggs, bacon, sausage, and fresh, flaky biscuits accompanied them. Coffee woke us up and lemonade cooled us off.

But, perhaps the most impressive part of this breakfast feast was how the staff served it – on gingham tablecloths atop picnic tables – with sturdy plastic plates and real silverware. 

​The temperature hovered near 90 degrees as we cleared the tables and looked down on miles of cacti. Then we headed back to the stables, ready for shade but happy for a great start to the day.

The northern area of New Mexico has long been one of my favorite U.S. destinations. About 12 years ago, I attended a press trip that mostly took place in Albuquerque. Throughout several tour days, my favorite activity was to ride in a hot air balloon - for the first time ever:

A whoosh of hot air and whisper of breeze had ushered us into the early morning sky outside Albuquerque. With arm muscles bulging, Brooke deftly adjusted heavy-duty synthetic ropes that secured the rainbow-striped balloon to the passenger basket, and the burner that helps change the air pressure and balloon shape. Cameras clicked and whirred in every direction.
 
A smaller balloon to our right shimmered silver and blue against wispy clouds. The Rio Grande snaked below us, across the fall-colored landscape, and beneath a highway bridge where passing cars resemble ants. The balloon nearly skimmed the river’s surface before it rose to the treetops and traveled within several yards of upper branches.
 
Fifty-five minutes, three ground miles, and 1,700 feet in elevation later our driver, Brooke, slowly allowed hot air to escape through a vent in the balloon's crown so it could land in a field near where we started. We gently touched ground and departed the basket. Several passengers helped the crew squeeze air out of the spent balloon and then the festivities began.
 
There's nothing like bubbly and donuts after your first hot air balloon ride. Brooke offered both as he distributed flight certificates and lapel pins, and read the Irish Balloonist's Prayer aloud:
 
The winds have welcomed you with softness.
The sun has blessed you with his warm hands.
You have flown so high and so well that
God has joined us together in laughter and set us
gently back into the loving arms of Mother Earth.

My first hot air balloon experience led to my husband Mark, and me attending the Albuquerque international Balloon Fiesta with friends from Arizona. Unbelievably gorgeous weather made our trip even better: 

My husband and I arrived several hours before our friends arrived, in time for evening festivities at the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. Flattened hot air balloons were lying beneath sun-tipped clouds and deep purple mountains. They puffed up slowly as the sun set. Hundreds of onlookers circulated amid the sea of rip stop nylon.​​

The next morning, blue skies and mountain peaks framed hundreds more balloons. We visited the launch field just after sunrise, and walked through ever-expanding corridors of brilliant hued nylon. Before long, balloons traveled skyward, like popcorn as it cooks. For the next several hours the spectacle mesmerized us as my camera ran continuously.
 
This nine-day October event celebrates the city’s status as ‘balloon capital of the world.’ Each fall, the festival draws more than 500 hot air balloons manned by 600+ pilots from across the globe, with mesmerized audiences of close to 900,000 people.

Anderson Abruzzo International Balloon Museum is a must-see spot, too. It resembles a hot air balloon laid on its side, with a two-story glass wall that overlooks 385-acre International Balloon Fiesta Park. Designed by an avid balloonist and Studio Southwest Architects/a member of the U.S. Green Building Council, the building utilizes a recycled water system, recycled paving, and methane gas extracted from landfills, and focuses on habitat reclamation. The museum showcases inflated balloons plus flight simulators, history, technology, and adventure exhibits. ​

Remember that reference to Sedona vortexes, in my last post? Individuals who are sensitive to vortex energy may feel it all along an energy line in the Earth, which some people say follows the Rio Grande River through the Rocky Mountains, Albuquerque, Santa Fe, the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Taos, and several small towns. Add on the fact that my traveling buddy, and I, both practice Reiki, and our experience in Chimayo - about 10 years ago - may seem a bit less 'woo-woo.'

Torrential rain followed Ellen and me from Santa Fe to Chimayó, leaving six-inch puddles on the highway. Waves of water slapped against the windshield as each vehicle passed. Hillside runoff in the tiny town created deep pools stained with red mud.
 
We finally arrived at Santuario de Chimayó, a tiny antique chapel reputed for miraculous healings. Visitors prayed silently in the sanctuary. An anteroom housed several dozen discarded crutches. Religious artifacts lined the walls of a second anteroom where a dusty border of red brick encircled a hole in the floor, filled with a pile of dirt and a small trowel.
 
We next stopped for lunch at Rancho de Chimayó, a 40-year-old family-run restaurant, where we ate what Ellen called the best meal we’d eaten, during our four-day trip. For the first time since our journey began, she felt like a million bucks.

​And then the vibrations began. I felt them from touching the blade of Ellen’s knife as she held the handle. She realized she had inadvertently stepped into sacred dirt in the floor of Sanctuario de Chimayó, and the chapel’s miraculous powers seemed very real.
 
We finished lunch and headed towards Taos. Tentative sunshine pierced the clouds and gradually brightened. A magnificent rainbow arched across several miles, with the highway as midpoint, a beautiful finale to a memorable afternoon.