Visual Traveler: Exploring Italian Flavors

                                     Above photo courtesy of Lisa Waterman Gray. ©
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What's in This Post
1) Delighting My Tastebuds in Ferrara 
2) International Customers at Hostaria Savonarola
3) A Tasty Trip to Turin 
4) Exploring Italian Flavors Slideshow
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Delighting My Tastebuds in Ferrara

After many hours of international plane travel and delays, an unexpected overnight stay in Milan, Italy and three hours on trains, I finally reached the lovely, historic town square and Castello Estense (Este Castle) in Ferrara by mid-afternoon.

My stomach growled before I swooned over impossibly creamy, rich gelato that melted slowly in the warm sun. More pedestrians and bicycles than cars filled cobblestone and brick streets, and customers on crowded restaurant patios sipped wine or espresso.

Just before sunset the brightly lit patio at Pizzeria Ristorante Woodpecker beckoned. Speaking broken Italian, I ordered a carafe of red wine, a plate of roasted eggplant, potatoes and peppers, and a large thin-crust pizza topped with long, bent asparagus spears. I drizzled fresh olive oil on the pie as black 'dust' from the charred crust accumulated on my fingers.

The evening took a magical turn when a priest in full-length vestments led a long procession of congregants along the cobblestone street, only 20 feet from my table. As I lingered over my meal, their candles illuminated centuries-old buildings. Did everything taste better because I was in Ferrara or because of the ultra-fresh ingredients in my meal? Perhaps it was a bit of both.

I slept well before enjoying a delicious breakfast buffet in my hotel and then set out to explore the city on foot. After several hours of walking, I found a welcoming restaurant patio beside the castle. At Birraria Giori, a warm breeze played with my napkin, a large basil leaf decorated mouthwatering, succulent pumpkin ravioli and cool Sangiovese quenched my thirst.

International Customers at Hostaria Savonarola

When nighttime returned bright spotlights illuminated Castello Estense, the massive cathedral and other antique buildings. People again spilled across sidewalks and cobblestone streets before chatting over pasta or gelato. After walking for 20 minutes I finally found Hostaria Savonarola, a cafe where fresh hams hung from the ceiling.

An Austrian couple sat beside me. Another couple conversed in Spanish and Australians occupied a third table. At a fourth table a family spoke rapid-fire Italian while sipping wine and waiting for their food. A small salad, crunchy, grilled Italian bread, sausage- and cheese-studded tagliatelle, and more wine, were a perfect end to my final evening here.

A Tasty Trip to Turin

Several days later one train, two buses and multiple requests for walking directions led me to Torino/Turin's historic neighborhoods where a crowded farmer's market full of bright, lush fall produce awaited customers. But I was on a mission. I wanted to visit tiny Caffè Al Bicerin, operating since 1763. This restaurant's biggest claim to fame is its longtime signature bicerin - a delectable concoction of coffee, hot chocolate, and foamy milk, served amid dark wood, eight marble-topped tables. Dozens of customers crowded the space.

Where wine and gelato are food groups, quaffing espresso accompanies afternoon socializing and pasta is a daily delight, northern Italy's culinary traditions are tightly woven into the country's culture. And I felt blessed to be part of it - if only for several days. 

                                   All above photos are by Lisa Waterman Gray. ©
Please note these images are older. While they reflected the character of these  destinations during my visit, specific details have undoubtedly changed.